The best dog breeds for hunting rabbits are any member of the hunting dog group with a good nose for scenting game and a willingness and ability to follow a scent trail without becoming distracted. If you are not sure which dog breeds are classified as gun dogs, we recommend that you go to one of the Kennel Club web sites such as the American Kennel Club, the United Kingdom Kennel Club or the Canadian Kennel Club. On each of these sites they hold lists of the breeds recognized within the category for your information.
Before we start to talk on this subject we would like to remind all US hunters that when using shotguns are only federally approved nontoxic shot is allowed. Always obtain appropriate landowner and/or tenant permission to shoot, and the always observe the shooting season which may apply within the region.
Rabbit hunting can be enjoyable and becomes an essential duty when rabbit numbers on any land holding exceed sensible numbers, plus it isn\’t a complicated sport. It can really be as simple as a quiet walk with any of the dog breeds for hunting rabbits, your old single-shot and a pocketful of shells. With rabbit hunting is also going to have to be a bit of luck if you are in the right place and the bunny will run by you. Assuming you know what you are doing there will be rabbits around you, and it is the dog that should be able to sniff them out where, hopefully they are lying low away from their burrows.
By the way, apart from potentially bagging some rabbit for the pot, rabbit hunting is also a good way to introduce new hunters or youngsters to the outdoors. Rabbit hunting is a fairly safe sport. However, it is imperative that to remain a safe sport that certain safety rules be adhered to without exception. Make sure you know those rules before you start.
Now here is a tip. Dog breeds for hunting rabbits and humans both miss rabbits which are holding tight (playing dead) in their hidden position even when in close proximity. Moving more slowly and performing a more thorough search of the area is the best tactic and in the end is likely to flush a rabbit and provide a shot. Dogs are helpful if you have them, but not entirely necessary. You\’ll probably see more rabbits with them, than without, but depending on the dog, you may not be able to take shots if the dog is too close. Hunting accident statistics clearly indicate that most accidents occur as a result of mistaking another hunter for game.
When did rabbit hunting with selected dog breeds for Hunting rabbits first start? Dogs of this type were taken to Rome and may have been imported to Roman Britain. Small hounds are mentioned in the Forest Laws of Canute which exempted them from the ordinance which commanded that all dogs capable of running down a stag should have one foot mutilated.
Where are the rabbits most likely to be found? The best advice is to seek out either evergreen bushes or other vegetation that forms thick enough tangles to provide significant cover, even without its foliage.
The rabbit hunting seasons open in some countries on the first of September and runs through to the end of March allowing seven months of rabbit hunting.
Of all the dog breeds for hunting rabbits Beagles are specially trained hounds that rely exclusively on their smell to chase and kill rabbits, and bringing a pack along with you on your hunting sessions will surely make a difference. However, no pack of beagles, no matter how well trained and experienced, will do the whole hunt because you, as hunter, have to play your essential role in the final success.
The Beagle is a popular family pet as they are known for their affection and loyalty. They can be good playmates for children and get along well with other pets and younger puppies Bred for their independence, the Beagle should not be allowed off-leash because they have a tendency to wander.
The Beagle is a small scent hound, bred to track rabbit and hare while the hunter follows on foot. They are short coated and usually a sturdy little hound. The Beagle is considered one of the oldest breeds in history and perhaps one of the closest original breeds of hound. The breed\’s popularity further increased during the reign of his daughter, Elizabeth I.Steve Evans
Okay, i finally got a purebred gentle child loving natured female boxer. Wanting to breed.?
I looked into this a lil bit before and saw something about a whelping box. My dad and i use to be big into rabbit hunting with beagles and use to breed beagles all the time. I know quite a bit about breeding, but its a whole diff game with these bigger stock dogs. My question is: Do you need a whelping box for the female when shes ready to have the puppies?
okay, for those of you saying "If you have to ask this, you don’t even need to be breeding them." you have to learn to start dont you? I’m sure no one thats a breeder, ever has been, or will ever be, has just woke up one day and said "hey for some reason i know everything there is about breeding." All the professional breeders started somewhere correct? And for your info, boxers are seen around here very much cause everyone charges outrageous prices around here. I breeding to fix this, to put boxers into homes that deserve them but cant afford to spend 200-350 dollars for a single pup. No, i dont have papers, no she has never been a show dog, neither has the male that im aware of. I’m not breeding for the litter with the most accessories (trophies, ribbons and such from parent’s show tournaments and such) im breeding for a good natured breed with beauty to boot. If your from around here, you dont need a dog thats top in show to sale a puppy.
i said above this are when i meant arent
If you have to ask you have no business breeding. This is of course on top of the fact you have a dog who is more than likely NOT breeding material. have you bothered to have the health clearances for this breed done? Do you know what to look for it a proper stud beyond a working set of balls?
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To give her security (in the wild wolves den underground) and to keep the puppies confined. It’s worth having even a large cardboard box to help.
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ask you mentor if you don have one it means
1. no genetic testing
2. no tittles
3. no registration
if you dont have any of this in means spay
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Its better if you can. However, only breed her when:
1. She is AKC registered.
2. She is at least 2 yrs old and been tested for genetic problems.
3. She has earned a champion title in showing.
4. You have written permission to breed her from the breeder.
If the above is not done or can’t be done, then spay her when she is 6-8 months old.
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My question is: Is your dog registered? Health tested? Pedigree any good? Any titles that she had? Genetic testing done? Stud owners knocking on your door?
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Yes,You do need one but you can atturally use just blankets and you can even make one.
Good luck
P.s I have a shar-pai boxer mix Lol. (useless info.)
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And you want to breed why??????
To better the line your dog came from? To get a puppy like the mother (almost impossible)???
To make money????(forget that) You have many people committed to buying a puppy?
Of course your boxer has had 2 heats already, and you have a wonderful male picked out, don’t you?
Now, how about tests for the Boxer heart problem that is very very common in many boxer lines.
Of course you’ve had her tested and cleared for that, right? Male too? Have you had a conversation with the owner of the male line and again with the breeder of your bitch and have names of people owning puppies from them that you can check up on?////
Guess you’re all set then. good luck
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Breeder and obedience trainer for 40 years
*Rolls eyes at previous answers* I don’t know why people can’t just answer a simple question.
Yes, you will need a whelping box. Make it at least twice the length of the mom and wide enough for her to fully stretch out. The whelping box should also be high enough that a puppy can’t jump out. A nice one will have a door that you can open and close, so when the puppies are larger you can shut it and they can’t get out.
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It is no different. A dog is a dog. Why do you want to breed her? You said she’s a great dog, so why are you risking her health with this idea? How does she compare to her breed standard? Has she been evaluated by competition or experts in the breed so you feel confident she will contribute to her breed? Is she at least two years old? Have you completed the health testing recommended for Boxers? No ethical breeder will allow you use their stud unless you’ve done at least this much.
If you do go ahead and have her bred, in true backyard breeder fashion, then yes, she will require a whelping box. All those Beagles should have had whelping boxes too. I know a woman with over 50 years in Beagles and she’d rip you a new one if you didn’t have them whelping indoors within a secure whelping box. The box should be square and large enough for the b**** to stretch out. Three sides are high and one side is low enough that the pregnant b**** can step into it without jumping, so just under her bottom line. The whelping box is placed in a room that can be isolated or inside an exercise pen that can be secured. You can read more here
http://www.k9web.com/dog-fa
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HUNDREDS OF THOUSANDS OF DOGS ARE EUTHANIZED EVERY YEAR BECAUSE OF OVER-BREEDING. If you breed your dog, you are only contributing to the problem. And why are you doing this, to make a little extra money? Try walking down the aisles of a local animal shelter, where 1/3 of the dogs are killed…THEN try convincing yourself that breeding your dog is a sound decision.
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Don’t be a backyard breeder because you never know if she has any genetic problems that might not show up on her but could on her pups. Just because she is purebred doesn’t mean she’s qualified to have puppies. It could even cause problems for the pups and even her.
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Why would you NOT use a whelping box?
If you need to ask this question here, you should not be breeding.
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yes she needs a whelping box…i have 2 whelping boxes for my pomeranians…i have 2 bred to have pups in march…
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pom breeder
i get TDs by show breeders and tree huggers because i don’t breed by kennel club breed standards to parade around in a show ring for judges to get points ribbons or $50,000 best in show kennel club breed standards health>>>http://www.walletpop.com/blog/2008/12/08/animals-and-money-rest-of-english-speaking-world-horrified-by-bbc/print/
Yes, all pregnant female dogs should have a whelping box. The female also needs to be on a puppy formulated dog food. They need the extra nutrition until the pups are weaned.
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You are in luck!
My cousin has a gorgeous male that will be finishing his championship soon; his name is Rockin’ Red Rambo out of Whin’s Roguish Rake and Rossa Amorosa (you can check his hip and elbow scores here: http://www.offa.org/ and his eyes here: http://www.vmdb.org/cerf.html) He is 2 years, 7 months old, and has no instance of SAS or hypothyroidism in his pedigree, which as you know are common in the boxer. He has also just completed screening for his hips, elbows, eyes, and heart. He’s never been bred, so of course is clear of sexually transmitted diseases too. I’m sure you’re aware of the recommendations put out by the American Boxer Club: http://www.americanboxerclub.org/health-screening.html
What about your female? Is she close to finishing her championship, and so that’s why you’re looking online for suitable studs? Or I suppose you’ve met some prospects already at the shows and are just waiting to get her hips, elbows, and eyes cleared, in addition the other genetic diseases that need to be screened for?
Of course, my cousin might decide to go with a proven b****, to ensure that it goes smoothly, but it really depends upon conformation. Do you have some show win photographs to send me, in addition to casual shots? Her male is very lovely, but of course no dog is perfect and in my opinion could stand to use a b**** with tighter feet and more length in the back to improve the breed.
Because that’s why you’re breeding, right? To improve the breed, because you love it so much?
EDIT: I have to agree with Curtis. No papers – no breeding. Look, the whole purpose of showing dogs is to ensure that they are as close to breed standard as possible, and since form follows function, it ensures that the dog is healthy enough to perform its original function. Showing dogs is NOT about prancing around rings to win $$ (which is a negligible amount) or ribbons; that’s just the natural outcome of ANY sporting event, you award the winner. It is to ensure that your boxer LOOKS like a boxer, has the CONFORMATION of a boxer, has the COLOR of a boxer, MOVES like a boxer, and is indeed a great representation of the breed. Otherwise, what are you breeding for? A kinda boxer-looking dog? A boxer with bad hips, a severe underbite, and cow hocks? A boxer with issues of skeletal structure couldn’t perform its original job, and so shouldn’t be bred – that’s what showing aims to eradicate.
There are many genetic diseases that boxers are prone to, some of which I mentioned above, that your girl may or may not have, you just don’t know until she’s tested properly. Your girl may be lovely, but without papers you cannot prove she is purebred (regardless of how she looks), and without that proof you cannot breed and contribute to the breed standard.
You like boxers? You like how they all look, how their personalities are? That’s called a breed standard and some good folks back in the day took the time to pick healthy dogs, breed them for the purpose of developing and cementing a breed, and that is what you like. Why would you detract from that by producing more poor quality dogs with genetic disease? You say you like beauty – well, inherited blindness, heart problems, and hip dysplasia sure ain’t pretty to me!
Good breeders start off by showing their dogs and finding other good breeders to LEARN from, to show them, hands-on, how to breed. Others just get the dogs to mate and then come whining here when their b**** is panting, hasn’t produced pups in hours, and asks, "oh no, wutz wrong?!"
Also, $200-300 for a dog is NOT a lot of money. Some shelters charge that much! Those $1,500 dogs from responsible breeders? Yes, they truly cost that much because the breeder pours tons of $$ into his/her dogs, for entering and traveling to shows, standard veterinary care, screening for genetic diseases, good food, whelping supplies, etc. It all comes out in the wash – that $1,500 puppy really did cost about $1,500 to produce.
That’s the difference between backyard breeders/puppy mills and good breeders. A $1,000 well-bred puppy is an investment and that money just goes back into the dogs. A $1,000 ‘designer’ dog or badly bred purebred is a walking veterinary bill, and that money just goes into that person’s wallet, not into care for their dogs.
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No papers….that’s enough said. Nobody cares your dog likes kids, most dogs do, nobody cares your dog is loving, most dogs are. In a Boxer fancier the #1 issue is working drive, then looks, sadly 99% of Boxers don’t have the correct working attitude or structure…including yours…and yes I’m saying that without having ever seen your dog, the face you think $250 is too much for a pup and want to breed an unregistered female is more than enough to make my blind assumption a fact.
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